Planet Bruce's Weblog

Top 10 Tips for New Homeowners

First time home-owners will experience some of the greatest highs and lows of their lives in the first few years immediately following their move. My first big thrill was walking to my mailbox and realizing I didn't need a key to unlock it, as I did at our previous townhouse. The first week was positively heady as I basked in the enjoyment of our new home, eating breakfast on the porch, enjoying the spring foliage, meeting our very hospitable neighbors, and experiencing many other small pleasures too numerous to mention. Here are my top 10 tips for enjoying your new home to the maximum and making it as positive an experience as possible:

Sump Pump Primer

Here is everything I know about sump pumps that you might find useful. A "sump" (I call it a "sump pit" or "sump well") is the hole that collects water in your basement, and a sump pump is the pump that periodically drains it. Not all basements have sump pumps. Some homeowners simply choose to live dangerously (or live in an area where they don't get water, such as at the top of a hill or in a dry region). Others prefer to seal off their basements walls water tight to keep water out. I know of at least one knowledgeable guy who swears by that approach, but you've got to consult someone who knows more about it (I assume the trick is to seal the basement walls with a watertight coating). Anyway, back to sump pumps...

If you have a sump pump and your basement is flooding, there are several possible causes:

1. Your pump isn't working.

2. Your pump is working, but not often or fast enough to keep water out.

3. Your pump is working, but the water exit hose is blocked, so water is backing up into your basement.

Each of these problems can be permanent or intermittent, so let's look at some of the issues. First, you should understand the basic process at work. The sump pit fills up with water. The sump pump, which is submersed in the pit, has a float on it. The float is usually either a white or black plastic oblong shape, although it may be covered in mud and appear brown. When the water rises, the float rises, and this should activate the pump. (This is the rather the opposite of the float in your toilet, which turns off the water flow when the water level rises.) The pump pumps the water through a pipe to the outside (either a drainage ditch, storm drain, or the street, usually). When the water level drops, the float falls, and the pump should shut off. There are other types of pumps which are not submersible. They sit on a stalk above the sump pit and often have a pressure-sensitive switch instead of a float, but I limit this discussion to the common submersible pump with a float.

If your pump isn't working at all, there are many possible causes, all with relatively simple solutions. (You can tell whether the pump is running by listening near the sump pit for a whirring, clicking, or whooshing noise. If you can't hear anything and the sump pit is sealed, grasp the exit pipe, often white PVC, and feel for slight vibration of the water rushing through the pipe.) If your basement is flooded, you can use a temporary pump that connects to a garden hose to help drain the basement (althoough these generally have much lower capacity than permanent sump pumps, so you may need more than one). Temporary pumps are available from hardware and plumbing stores, and often from pool supply stores (they're used to drain water from the top of pool covers).

If your pump isn't running:

1. There may be no water in the sump pit, so the pump doesn't need to run. In fact, the pump shouldn't run without water, as that often leads to the pump burning out. If your pump is running continually even when it shouldn't, it may be a stuck float or a bad swtich (see below). If your pump isn't running, test it by pouring a bucket of water into the sump pit or running water from a garen hose into it. The pump should kick on when the water level rises. You can also move the float manually (see below) but you'll also want to make sure the float moves without your manual intervention.

2. The sump pump might not be getting power. This might be due to a power outage, or perhaps the circuit breaker for the circuit on which the pump is located has tripped. If the problem is a power outage, you'll need either a backup generator or a dedicated battery backup unit (about the size of a car battery) designed to power a sump pump during a power outage. As the most common time to get a flood is during a storm, which might also knock at power, you should have a power backup system in place before finishing a basement with carpets, furniture, etc. Until then, keep everything in the basement up on palettes or cinder blocks, or in waterproof bins. If the problem is that your sump circuit tripped, have a qualified electrician install a dedicated circuit just for the sump pump. For example, don't run a basement dehumidifier or washer/dryer on the same circuit as your sump pump. You should have a dedicated circuit for your sump pump regardless, and the circuit should have a ground fault interupter (GFI) to prevent electric shock.

3. If the float cannot move freely, it might not float up and activate the pump when water rises. Make sure the float is not binding on the side of the sump pit. Test it by manually moving the float up or down with your hand and see if the pump turns on and off (you should hear a clicking sound when the float rises or falls.) Some pumps have a built-in delay to ensure that the pump doesn't turn on and off too frequently. So wait up to five minutes before moving the float again to see if the pump drains the the sump pit when the float is raised. Make sure nothing (such as foam packing pellets or a marble) has fallen in the sump pit to obstruct the float. Sometimes, gravel and/or silt will obstruct the float. In that case, remove the sump pump from the pit (discussed later), dig out the loose material at the bottom of the sump pit with a garden spade, place a piece of slate or a flat concrete paver at the bottom of the pit to create a flat, even surface, and replace the sump pump. Note that you want something thin and water resistant under the pump. Don't use something like wood that will rot and flake. And be sure to dig out the pit deep enough so that the height of the pump isn't changed when you add in the bottom surface. Otherwise, the pipe might have to be shortened when you replace the pump, as the pump will sit higher than before.

4. If the pump doesn't turn on when the float rises, then the switch is most likely bad. Sump pumps typically last 3 to 7 years, so it probably isn't worth replacing the switch. New pumps are usually under $100, so it is easiest to simply install a new pump if the switch on the old one is bad. Be sure to get a pump with at least the same capacity as the old one and with an exit drain size (see below) compatible with your existing pipes. And make sure the pump will fit in the existing sump pit. It is often most convenient to replace a pump with the identical model so that the exit pipe is in the same place and at the same height, especially if you have a custom-fitted cover over your sump pit.

So that basically wraps up the section on "the pump isn't running". The problem is either the electrical power to the pump, an obstructed float, or a broken switch, and the remedies are described above.

Now let's suppose that your pump runs but your basement is still flooding. This means that your pump can't keep up with the incoming water. But this might be for many reasons. Understand that the pump's ability to drain water is a function of the pump's capacity (often measured in horsepower or displacement), the diameter of the exit pipe, the rate of water coming into the basement, and how soon the pump starts when water rises.

Let's talk about each issue:

1. Household sump pumps typically come in either 1/3, 1/2, 2/3, or 3/4 horsepower, with 1/3 horsepower often being inadequate and 3/4 horsepower sufficient for the all but the worst cases. If your pump can't keep up with incoming water, increasing the pump size might solve the problem, but keep reading.

2. The exit pipe is typically 1.5 inches in diameter, but may be as much as 2 inches or as little as 1 inch. The smaller the exit pipe, the harder for the pump to push water through it. But you can't really change the exit pipe diameter without also changing the pump, because it will have threads for a particular diameter pipe. If you have a 1.5 inch pipe or larger and a 1/3 horsepower pump, get a stronger pump with the same diameter pipe. If you decide to increase the pipe diameter, you will need to change the exit piping, including possibly the pipes that carry the water from your house to the outside drainage ditch, storm drain, or street. In other words, you have to make sure you cure the bottleneck.

3. You can drastically affect the amount of water coming into your basement by ensuring that the grading around your house is proper. That means there should be enough soil to angle water away from your foundation. Make sure gutters are clear and that downspouts output water at least two to four feet from your house. Make sure your yard is graded away from the house and consult a drainage engineer for ways to draw more water away from your foundation. The water might well be coming from other nearby properties. Consult your town planning board to see if they can divert water away from your property (and keep in mind that changing drainage patterns is often a code violation, so consult the town before you undertake any regrading).

4. Realize that your sump pump isn't just draining the small sump pit in your basement floor. It is really trying to lower the water table below the bottom of the sump pit. If the sump pit is too shallow, the water table will have risen almost to your basement floor before the pump kicks in. In the case of sudden, heavy rainstorms, your pump won't keep up. Therefore, the pit should be dug deeper to give your pump a chance to "keep ahead of the game". But your pit shouldn't be so deep that it is constantly trying to lower the water table unreasonably. Consult a knowledgeable local plumber or drainage engineer, but a good rough number is that the sump pit should be about 20 inches deep. Again, this depends on many issues, including the local water table, the depth to which the basement is dug, the local soil composition, the peak rainfall, local runoff which depends on the nearby topology, etc. It isn't an exact science, but if your basement is flooding and your pump is already of a larger capacity, consider deepening the sump pit to give the pump a head start. You might need to redo the pipes, and be sure not to exceed the rise your pump is capable of. That is, lowering a sump pump might decrease it's ability to pump out water.

5. If one pump isn't keeping up with the water influx, consider adding a second sump pit and a second pump (each should be on a dedicated electrical cicuit). In a basement covering a large area, you might want to position the two sump pumps at opposite ends of the basement. In a smaller basement, some people create a larger sump pit with two pumps in it. Often, the second pump will be situated at a higher level (picture a pit where the bottom looks like a staircase, with one pump on each step). The second pump won't kick on unless the first pump falls behind and the water rises sufficiently high.

Often, your pump will be working fine but there will be a problem with the pipes (either inside your house or outside your house) that are supposed to carry the water away. Assuming the pipes are of appropriate diameter, there are still other possible issues.

1. Pumps are rated only to pump water a certain vertical distance. For example, a pump may be rated at 50 gallons per minute (gpm) for an 8-foot rise. If your piping is such that the pump has to pump water out a pipe that rises 10 feet, it won't achieve the full 50 gpm. Check your pump's rating and/or consult a qualified plumber.

2. A few feet above your sum pit, in the exit pipe, there should be a "check valve". A check valve is a one-way valve that prevents water from flowing backward in the pipe. This prevents the water that you pumped out from draining directly back in. Make sure the check valve is functioning properly and oriented in the correct direction (it should have arrows on the outside indicating the direction of water flow). If the pump is often running, stopping, and starting again, the check valve may either be broken or it may be too high on the exit pipe (It should be a located only a few feet above your basement floor, not at the top of the exit pipe.) Replacing a check valve is relatively easy. Just make sure you get the right size valve for your pipe diameter, and have a bucket ready to catch the water that drains when you remove the old one. Unscrew the hose clamps on either end of the old valve, then wiggle the valve to get the rubber boots off the existing pipes. Wiggle the new check valve in place (there is usually a certain amount of play in the pipes to make this possible). Make sure the PVC pipes on either end are well-seated into the rubber boots on the ends of the new check valve, and re-tighten the hose clamps.

3. The exit pipe typically comes up vertically from the sump pit. At some point, it should make a 90-degree turn towards a nearby outside wall. In fact, the turn should ideally be tighter than 90 degrees so that the pipe is angled down as it exits the house. This prevents water from staying in the pipe, which discourages frozen pipes or excess water draining back into the system (although the check valve should prevent the latter).

4. Once the exit pipe leaves the house, it typically travels underground. This pipe should be pitched downward so that it drains. This prevents standing water which can freeze and burst the pipe. The drain pipes typically are not buried below the frost line, even in colder climates. This is why the right pitch is crucial to prevent build up of ice. Older pipes may lose their pitch over time. For example, at my 40-year-old house, the original drain pipe was too narrow and flexible. Over time, tree roots lifted it up to ground level, eliminating the appropriate pitch, causing standing water that froze and broke the pipe. For that matter, tree roots sometimes invade pipes and obstruct them from the inside (a leaky pipe is a source of water to which roots are attracted). The solution is to have a roto-router machine penetrate the tree routes to clear the line (although this may be only a temporary solution).

5. At some point, the drain pipe exits to a drainage ditch, storm drain, or the street. This exit point can become clogged with ice, leaves, dirt, or animal activity (nests, burrows, etc.). Make sure it is clear at least once a season. Thankfully, there usually isn't a lot of water flowing when ice blockages are likely. Unfortunately, when the ice and snow melts, a lot of water can drain into your basement when the exit pipe is still frozen, so be sure to check it when the weather starts to thaw.

Other things to keep in mind:

1. Putting a cover over the sump pit is a good idea in most cases. It prevents objects such as packing pellets and marbles from falling into the well, which can obstruct the float and cause a flood.

2. If you have a radon mitigation system, the sump pit can be a major source of radon. Therefore, it should be sealed air tight. You can use a piece of wood, acrylic, or flexible plastic as a lid, and seal it down with waterprooof caulk or mastic. You'll have to cut holes for the things that must pass through the lid. Seal around the pipe and the sump pump power cord where they pass through the cover. Also leave room for a hose running from your dehumidifer and the condensation drain pipe from your air conditioner/furnace, if applicable.

3. If you have a sealed sump pit, consider one with a large screwcap to allow you to open the cover to pour water down it or peer in with a flashlight.

4. If you have a sealed sump pit, you may need to replace the cover when you replace the sump pump or exit piping, as they may be a different size or in a different location.

5. A sump pit should be big enough for the pump to fit comfortably in it. A square 16 inches on a side or a hole 18 inches in diameter is usually big enough. You might need to drill it with a jackhammer. I'm not sure how deep it should be, but 20 inches is in the right ballpark. I'm not sure what you're supposed to put on the bottom, although some suggest gravel (I prefer a harder surface, such as a piece of slate atop the gravel to give a level surface, preventing the pump from tipping, which sometimes causes the float to bind on the wall of the pit. A stable surface also prevent gravel from being sucked into the pump intake which is usually on the bottom of the pump, but keep reading).

6. The sump pit's lining should be porous. The whole idea is to let water in so that your pump can pump it out. If your sump pit is too well sealed, water will rise in the basement before it rises in the sump pit. Therefore, the sides of the pit are usually gravel that is held back by a perforated lining made of metal, plastic, or ceramic. The bottom is typically open, often lined with gravel. That said, I've seen numerous sump pits incorrectly lined with something that was non-perforated. If need be, punch some holes in the sides of the sump pit's lining.

7. Be sure that your sump pump drains to an appropriate storm drain and not to the sewer drain. Municipalities pay a lot of money to pump storm water out of their sewage treatment plants, so draining to your sewer line is often a violation of local building codes. (That's right, storm drains and sewer drains are two different networks.) And don't pump storm water into your septic system, as you'll quickly overwhelm it.

Removing a sump pump from the pit

Removing and replacing a sump pump is surprisingly easy. A pump sits on the bottom of the sump pit (it's not bolted down in any way). The restraints to removing a pump are the sump pit lid, if any, and the piping to which the pump is attached. So to remove a sump pump, first remove the lid and the pipe:

1. Unplug the power cord!

2. The PVC pipe and power cord will pass through the sump pit lid, if any. Using a utility knife, carefully cut the caulk sealing the lid to the basement floor. In some cases, the lid will be bolted down, in which case you must unscrew the bolts.

2. You don't necessarily need to separate the cord and pipe from the lid. You can move them all in one piece, for now. Later, if you have to separate them,carefully cut away any caulk with a utility knife, being sure not to cut the power cord. (Did you make sure it was unplugged!?)

3. Loosen the bottom hose clamp holding the check valve in place (see description above). If you loosen the top one, water will drain, so have a bucket handy. Once you loosen the hose clamp, you should be able to wiggle the pipe free below the check valve. (The check valve is often green with black rubber boots on either side.)

4. If there is no check valve, or the check valve is in the wrong place, cut the pipe with a saw and install a check valve. Click here for more information on working with PVC pipes.

5. Once the pipe is free, you should be able to lift the whole pump unit out of the sump pit. Although you can lift by the pipe, most pumps also have a handle by which you can lift them. DON'T lift the pump by the arm that supports the float!

6. Get a good worklight, being careful not to let it contact water in the sump pit.

7. Clean out and level the bottom of the sump pit as described above. Remove any debris and consider installing a piece of slate or concrete paver as a flat supportive surface at the bottom of the pit.

8. The pump may be covered with muck. Take it outside, hose it off. Cleaning it may be sufficient to get the float and switch to work properly. Remove any rocks from the intake.

9. Look on the pump for a little metal plate that list the model and capacity so you can replace it if necessary. (You won't be able to find the plate until you hose off the pump.)

10. If replacing the pump, unscrew the PVC pipe from the pump itself. You might need a big wrench or a rubber strap wrench. Bring both the pipe and the old pump to the hardware store to make sure you get the appropriate replacement (if necessary, they'll unscrew the old pipe and screw the new one in for you).

11. You might need to replace the pipe or the sump pit lid depending on the location of the pipe as it exits the pump and the height of the new pump relative to the old one. See the earlier discussion about using a different pipe size or pump capacity.

Before Leaving on a Trip

Here are some reminders of things to do before leaving for a trip as it relates to a house. This list doesn't include things like getting directions, airline tix, hotel reservations, and packing.

House trip checklist:

1. Arrange for a house-sitter/watcher

2. Make arrangements for pets (walking, boarding, food, etc.)

3. Have the post office hold mail for you or ask a neighbor to take it in.

4. Cancel any deliveries, such as the milk-man

5. Empty the fridge of perishables that won't last until your return.

6. Leave a key for the neighbors in case they need to deal with flood or water leak.

7. Back up your computer data, especially if taking a laptop on the trip.

8. Set outgoing messages on answering machine or voicemail. Set vacation reply text for email. Put paper in the fax machine and make sure it has ink or toner.

9. Don't leave damp laundry, it will mildew. Wash it before you leave.

10. Run dishwasher and don't leave dishes in sink, which can attract ants or mice.

11. Arrange for lawn care (mowing, watering, etc.)

Just before you leave:

1. Make sure stove/oven is off.

2. Check all locks and deadbolts.

3. Set the thermostat to save electricity or gas. Don't turn off the heat entirely or your pipes may freeze. Likewise, don't turn off A/C entirely in the summer. In the winter, set the heat to about 50. In the summer, set it to about 80. Extremes greater than that are not good for computers, furniture, plants, etc. Consider a more comfortable range if leaving pets behind.

4. Set Water Heater to "vacation" setting to conserve energy

5. Pull down the shades and close curtains to conserve energy, but consider leaving some open for plants to get light.

6. Shut off lights or set timer (including XMas lights)

7. Put in long-term fish or pet feeder

8. Water the plants

9. Shut off water softener (and/or refill salt tank).

10. Empty the trash

11. Flush the toilets

12. Shut off house water - Make sure all taps are off, including outside hose bibs. Shut off water to washing machine.

13. Check that sump pump is working

14. Empty the dehumidifier reservoir (or run a hose to the sump pump well so it doesn't fill up).

See Checklist when Returning Home from Vacation.

Returning from a Trip

Here are some reminders of things to do when returning from a trip. See the companion list for things to do before leaving for a trip.

House trip checklist upon return:

1. Retrieve mail from mailbox, neighbors, and/or post office.

2. Adjust thermostat.

3. Return Water Heater to non-Vacation (normal) setting.

4. Reengage Water Softener (cycle manual backwash if necessary).

5. Retrieve pets that have been boarded out.

6. Clean fridge of anything that spoiled while away.

7. Retrieve key from neighbor or housesitter.

8. Check Messages, faxes, and email, and return calls

9. Wash laundry from trip.

10. Water plants

11. Turn water back on -- main house supply, supply to washing machine, supply to outside hose bibbs.

12. Check basement for flooding.

13. Empty the dehumidifier reservoir

14. Mow/water the lawn

What to Do During a Power Outage

Power outages can last from a few seconds to several days (or even weeks in extreme cases). In "Preparing for a Power Outage" I covered some of the important preparations for enduring a power outage of less than a few hours. When the power goes out, the better prepared you are, the better chance you have to turn the disruption into merely a temporary inconvenience. If you're not prepared, do so now before the next major outage. The prudent preparation depends on your circumstance and location. For example, if you have critical medical needs, small children, or elderly relatives, you need to be appropriately prepared. Likewise, your preparations should account for the likely cause of the power outage where you live. Is it likely to be caused by a hurricane or an ice storm?

Here are some things to do or not do during a power outage:

1. DO turn on one or more flashlights. Be careful not to fall down stairs, etc., in the dark. Keep flashlights on each floor for this purpose. Do not open the fridge or freezer to get batteries, as that lets the cold air out.

2. DO NOT light candles if you suspect any gas leak. If you light candles, make sure they are not a fire hazard. Keep them away from pets, curtains, children, etc. Make sure they are on a fireproof dish in case they fall over. Some candle wicks contain lead and should not be burned, especially near small children.

3. DO NOT open the fridge or freezer to get food, drink, etc. Keep the cold air in and food should last for at least several hours, even without the power on. If you have critical material in a fridge or freezer, such as lab specimens, be sure to have a backup power or refrigeration system in place. (If all else fails, try using ice, or placing food outside if it is sufficiently cold outside).

4. DO NOT flush the toilet or use tap water if you can avoid it. Leave the water for the fire department which may have to fight a fire. If the water supply is interrupted, you may need to drink the water (yes, even out of the toilet tank, although it is strongly preferred to keep potable water on hand in jugs). Shut off the supply valves to each toilet. That way if you accidentally flush it, it won't continue to consume water. If you anticipate a power outage, store water beforehand in large vessels, such as a clean bathtub. If your house has well water do not use water if you can avoid it. The well pump is electric and will not be able to supply additional water or pressure. Once you use the water in the holding tank, you won't have any water for an emergency, and you might get air into the system, which you'll need to bleed out later.

5. DO make sure that pets, children, and the elderly are properly cared for. Consider helping neighbors who may have children or elderly people at home.

6. DO contact the power company to let them know about the outage. Cordless phones won't work when the power is out. Use a traditional corded phone, as the phone lines provide their own power supply, which works even when the main electricity goes out. Cell phones are another option, but expect circuits to be jammed in an emergency.

7. If it is cold and your fireplace/chimney or wood-burning stove is in working order, consider starting a fire. Don't forget to open the flue.

8. Eat ready-to-eat foods such as granola bars, trail mix, and jerky. Avoid opening the fridge. Cook with a camp stove (outdoors only!) if necessary.

9. Consult and execute your emergency plan, especially for anyone with a medical condition. Make sure all family members and pets are accounted for.

10. In most cases, it is best to shelter in place. Avoid opening the doors, which lets out heat. Avoid driving or walking anywhere. Try to wait out the power outage and any accompnaying storm.

11. If necessary, activate any battery back up for your sump pump (many models will kick on automatically) to prevent the basement from flooding. If applicable, raise items in the basement off the floor in case of flooding. Either put things upstairs, or stack them on cinderblocks, palettes, shelves, etc.

12. If your computer system has a UPS (uninterruptible power supply), shut the computer down before the battery is drained. Turn off the monitor. Use the battery for another purpose, such as plugging in a small light, if applicable.

13. If applicable, start your backup generator, to power critical appliances such as your sump pump and refrigerator. Turn off all unnecessary devices.

14. Have fun with your family. Tell each other stories (not too scary), sing songs, and toast marshmallows.

15. If the power outage occurred in the summer or due to high energy consumption, turn off the air conditioning, laundry, electric stove, and other devices that consume electricity.

When power comes back on:

1. Extinguish any candles.

2. Reset any clocks and other electronic equipment such as VCRs.

3. Check the basement for flooding. If it flooded, consult a plumber before relighting your hot water heater or restarting the heating unit.

4. Restock your emergency supply stash.

5. Discuss what went right/wrong with other family members. Resolve to refine the plan and do better next time.

6. Check the condition of food in the refrigerator and freezer. Cook or discard anything that has thawed out.

7. Consider appropriate measures to put in place such as a backup generator for next time.

8. Check on any elderly neighbors, those with small children, etc.

9. Turn back on the supply valves to any toilets, and flush any toilets you left unflushed.

10. Leave the TV off for a few hours. Enjoy the quiet.

Preparing for Power Outages

If the power goes out, all you need to do is light some candles and wait, right? Not necessarily. A little preparedness can avoid big problems down the road. Here are some things to do to prepare for a power outage of up to a few hours duration, For longer term outages, of course you'll need food and other supplies.

1. Prepare an emergency kit with at least two flashlights with extra batteries, plus matches and candles. Keep them in a known place so that you can find them in the dark. Don't store the batteries in the freezer, as you'll want to get them without having to open the freezer. Also store a few gallons of water to tide you over if fresh water isn't available. Keep the phone number of the electric company handy, and report the outage as soon as possible.

2. Consider an alternate heat source, as power outages often occur during winter storms. Keep some wood or Duraflame logs handy. Be sure the fireplace/chimney or wood-burning stove is in working order and don't forget to open the flue.

3. Consider an alternate cooking source, such as a camp stove (store extra propane cylinders safely). Better to have lots of ready-to-eat snacks on hand such as granola bars, trail mix, and jerky.

4. Make sure you have an emergency plan in place for anyone with a medical condition. Make sure your family knows the plan. Account for pets if applicable (and have food/water available for the pet as well).

5. Cordless phones won't work when the power is out. Use a traditional corded phone, as the phone lines provide their own power supply, which works even when the main electricity goes out. Cell phones are another option, but expect circuits to be jammed in an emergency.

6. Make sure there is gas in the car and that you have a viable alternative should you need to leave your property. In most cases, it is best to shelter in place.

7. Consider a battery back up for your sump pump. This will prevent the basement from flooding if power goes out during a rainstorm.

8. Consider a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) for your computer. This should give you time to shut it down in the case of a power outage without losing any pending work. It is also handy for intermittent power dips that would otherwise crash your computer or cause them to reboot.

9. Consider a backup generator, such as one that is gasoline powered and can be rented or purchased from home supply stores. Natural gas generators are increasingly popular. They are installed permanently and kick on automatically if electricity is out. Assuming natural gas is still being supplied to your house, the generator will create enough electricity to power critical appliances such as your sump pump, refrigerator, and a few lights.

See the companion article "What to Do During a Power Outage"